Patek Philippe Nautilus 5980/1A

With a diameter of 40.5mm, this reference is only 0.5mm larger than the iconic 5711 despite the addition of a chronograph complication. The presence of the chronograph push-pieces gives it a more imposing presence on the wrist without affecting the aesthetics of the model. Its 12.3mm thickness is also very respectable, as it is thinner than a Rolex Daytona. The architecture of the case, which is sectioned into three parts, enables the 5980 to conceal its thickness for an even more elegant feel.

The bracelet is beautifully constructed and, in a way, it's a bit of a retro piece as it's one of the last editions of the Nautilus chronograph or otherwise to use screws to secure the removable links. Not just screws, but much more desirable spring-loaded ceramic snaps to maintain the tolerances of the clasp over time. This is an important detail that disappeared in 2012, so this generation of Nautilus are already becoming collectors' items. The screw-on bracelets are of better quality than the later pin cuffs. Why have they made this change? Sad to say, it was to cut costs. The clasp is double-spread and features a safety engraved with the Calatrava cross, offering reassurance when it closes. Like the rest of this watch, the bracelet is hand-finished, with perfectly executed polished bevelling running along the edge of the bracelet, drawing its source from the side of the case. The alternating satin-finish and polished finish visually lightens the mass of the strap, which is certainly not massive, but this finish gives it an allure that is anything but monotonous.

The three-part case features a central section that is surprisingly slim and superbly finished. Mainly satin-brushed, once again the bevelling and polished details underline the case's finely crafted architecture like a signature. The hinged closing system integrated into the bezel and polished on its side is an integral part of the Nautilus design, but also of its functionality as a sports watch. Indeed, it was the solution devised by Gerald Genta to ensure the Nautilus was water-resistant. This 5980 boasts 120m of water-resistance by locking the bezel to the case from the front and the sapphire crystal caseback from the back, creating this three-module construction. The crown is also protected within the structure of the bezel hinge and features the Calatrava cross.

There is a date adjustment push-button on the side of the case, a relic of the 5960 reference, since the calibre of the 5980 presented here, CH 28-520, is directly linked to the 5960 annual calendar chronograph, which uses a series of push-piece adjustments to set the functions. Since the 5980 displays only the date, there is only one push-piece, discreetly integrated into the side of the case.

Equipped with a superb gradient blue dial, immediately inspired by the standard 5711 model, which changes from navy blue to silver-blue at its centre, it features the horizontal lines imagined in Gerald Genta's first sketch. The applied white gold hour-markers are attractively facetted at the ends to trace the arc of the dial, which features a minute track painted in white against a blue background. The single counter positioned at 6 o'clock displays the chronograph, hours and minutes indications with an assembly of two superimposed hands, an ingenious and aesthetic solution that preserves the harmonious proportions of the Nautilus. The polished central hand not only serves as the chronograph seconds hand, but can also be used as a constant seconds hand, since Calibre CH 28-520 is a chronograph movement with a vertical clutch enabling the chronograph to be constantly activated without any additional wear. Another advantage of this vertical clutch is that the seconds are started without the central hand jerking. A flyback function is also incorporated, enabling the chronograph to be reset to zero with instantaneous launch of the central hand, another legacy from the aforementioned reference 5960.

Admiring the visible caseback, we can see the watch's calibre still displaying the Poinçon de Genève, most likely one of the last models to be released before it was replaced by the Patek Philippe hallmark, making this 2009 watch a collector's item as it was the last year of collaboration between Patek Philippe and the Poinçon de Genève (also known as the Geneva Seal), a third-party organisation that defines the highest standards in the watchmaking world (decoration of the plates, precision, reliability of the calibre, etc.). A true horological feat, the self-winding CH 28-520 C calibre requires no fewer than 327 components and offers 28,800 vibrations per hour (4Hz). In short, the 5980's movement is one of a kind, with its great sophistication and elegance.

This 2009 model is in impeccable, near-new condition, coming from its first owner and accompanied by a more than complete set that includes the usual 'full set' as well as the original purchase invoice, the original ticket and other manuals and additional accessories acquired by the owner.